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Vibrant Culture

By Jeff Borg

In 1518, when Spanish explorer Juan de Grijalva first spied Tulum, the great Mayan civilization was already 700 years past its peak.

"The Maya are well known for their writing, as well as for their advanced mathematics, astronomy and calendrical calculations," explains Laura Rubio of Blue Pearl Suites in Playa del Carmen. But is Mayan culture found only in history books, or is it alive?

Both. Dyadha Avila, a manager at Viva Wyndham Maya in Playacar, says, "People speak Mayan, but they cannot explain or translate the Maya codices."

"You can go into a Mayan village and see older people dressed in native garb," observes real estate professional Laura Zapata, "then see the younger generation in shorts and T-shirts, texting away to their friends."

"There is a Maya culture alive today," asserts Rohan Barnett of Ah Cacao. "It can be experienced in local crafts and culinary traditions."



GREAT ACCOMPLISHMENTS. Centuries before the Roman Empire, the Maya were creating their brilliant civilization, which peaked around A.D. 800. The peaceful societies of the Classic period, A.D. 200-1000, were all about farming, arts and religion. The warring societies of the Postclassic period, A.D. 1000-1525, were about trade, expansion and conquest.

In 1502, contact with Europeans marked the beginning of the end. The cities were abandoned and receded into the jungle. In Riviera Maya, archaeologists catalog 100 sites.

Chichén Itzá, the UNESCO World Heritage city located three hours inland, received a meticulous restoration in the 1920s. Its Pyramid of Kukulcán, icon of the Mayan world, strikes even worldly travelers speechless.

Chichén Itzá did business through the port of Tulum. Cacao, feathers, gold and other imports came up from Honduras and beyond. Salt, textiles and other exports flowed south.

MAYA CUISINE. Restaurateur John Gray, whose guests benefit from the blessings of Maya cooks — and occasionally Mayan gods — says, "One of the favorite parts of this ancient culture is its influence on the cuisine of the Yucatán."

The Maya's true gift is their improbable combinations of chocolate, honey, corn, chilis, peppercorns, coriander, achiote and cinnamon. Scan local menus for anything under mole, a dark rich sauce combining chocolate and chilies.

Local coffee becomes a luscious dessert when laced with xtabentún, a Maya liqueur flavored with anise and honey. Dark chocolate, sometimes mixed with honey, cinnamon and nuts, goes by the botanical name Theobroma (food of the gods). The effect is heavenly when coffee and chocolate come together, like at Ah Cacao, la Quinta at Constituyentes and at Calle 30 in Playa (ahcacao.com).



MAYA COMMUNITIES. Visit both the big archaeological sites and some small Maya villages.

At Tulum, el Castillo feels like stepping back a thousand years. At sprawling Cobá, inland from Tulum, lies an impressive 138-foot temple, the tallest ancient structure on the Yucatán. Besides providing fresh water, hundreds of cool cenotes (sinkholes) were homes to Chaacs (rain gods) and portals to Xibalba (the underworld). For a cultural exchange or tour into Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage site, remember that Community Tours Sian Ka'an is run by expert local Maya.

For a simpler take, Laura Wolfe, owner of Club Akumal Caribe, advises, "Get off the beaten track. Rent a car and visit the small towns." Charles Galligani, owner of Tulum's Don Diego resorts, agrees. "The people are friendly. Eat a taco at the market in Felipe Carrillo Puerto. Buy some honey in Francisco Uhmay. Really, it's amazing."

Read more about Riviera Maya's archaeological sites.